Tokyo

We have arrived! Zipair proved more than ample … very comfortable seats (most important) and despite misgivings about ordering the Mushroom ravioli (would it be just a step up from Chef Boyardi?) it was surprisingly good! Just wish the announcement systems were clearer. In the departure lounge one had to be almost on top of the desk to have a chance of hearing … and on board everything was really muffled. OK for 20-year-old ears, perhaps, but there were a lot of puzzled looks from older passengers.

At Narita airport it’s sensation overload … bright lights …. talking toilets …. miles and miles of walkways and an army of efficient, easily-identified workers with a ready smile, even through a mask (still in wide use).

Luggage was already being unloaded by the time we made it through immigration, and there, passing us on the carousel our two suitcases … neatly placed side-by-side. No hurled bags tumbled haphazardly down the shute! Impressive.

Finding the Narita Express ticket machines was relatively simple (thank you Youtube videos!), and although we forgot to punch in the actual seats numbers, a helpful assistant sorted that out. Wouldn’t really have mattered as the train was practically empty. Our destination was end of the line Shinjuku … a truly MASSIVE station … taking up both sides of the road. Rows of gleaming food shops with tantalizing, beautifully displayed wares just calling out to hungry passersby.

Outside the afternoon rush hour was filled with masses of hurrying people and never-ending traffic. It seems to comprise mostly taxis, buses and scooters. People AND vehicles wait patiently for their turn … no horn-honking … no straggling pedestrians. Hundreds and hundreds of official taxis, their drivers all attired in suits and wearing masks, and in many cases, white gloves. 99.9% were a specially-made Toyota model called Japan Taxi – very reminiscent to the London taxis. And nary a speck of dust to be seen.

The hotel room is compact by North American standards … but carefully thought out. The room key is inserted into a unit beside the door and activates room electricity. When you leave the room, all electricity is turned off. The console beside the bed has dimmable lights, USB chargers, a main light switch, and even a small ‘foot light’ under the unit itself (a great nightlight). Two sets of traditional Japanese cotton pajamas and slippers. Mini fridge, hot water pot, mini desk with chair and stool. There’s a smart toilet in the bathroom to wash, dry and ‘fluff’ one’s undercarriage, should one feel so inclined … it even heats the seat to your preferred warmth!

We’d flaked out by six. Heaven to stretch out after 10 hours on the plane and another hour and a half on the train.

Day two, we headed out early into the sunshine. Skyscrapers everywhere with eye-catching designs. Strolled through the nearby park designed for everyone’s use … jogging pathways (stating their length) … companionable park benches surrounded by spring flowers …. playgrounds …. sports areas … a meditating waterfall. Dog (enu) walkers abounded with their adored and pampered pooches … carefully clipped poodles, chihuahuas in fetching jackets, long-haired dachshunds sporting fashionable footwear, and one particularly fluffy Pomeranian rather like a snowball on legs and only tiny boot-button eyes visible.

The highly rated breakfast restaurant was packed … and with a serious wait list, so we plumped for the next door Starbucks instead. Yes, I know! It was delightful though. Individual chairs and tables all looking out towards the park … the coffee was delicious, and we had ‘American’ waffles. Light, fluffy and just a hint of sweetness. Perfect. Several stall holders were setting up, we stopped and chatted with one who obviously wanted to try out his English. He had a wonderful array of preserves from red bean paste to strawberry jam – all hand made by an elderly relative in the north. Stacks of display baskets were packed flat for transport and then assembled – it was a fine science.

A Hop-on-hop-off bus was a good way to scout out the city sights – and we could return for a closer look later. The tour guide carefully checked out the bus … straightening every head rest cover before allowing anyone to enter, Seat belts were enforced with great seriousness. The audio was interesting and clear, providing an excellent background and history to the various buildings, temples, businesses, and architecture.

The Akabusa area really took our fancy with it’s flourishing restaurants & enticing aromas, shops and vibrant signs. Some streets were a touch too contrived and touristy … selling probably over-priced souvenirs and food, so we turned down a quieter side street and followed our noses to an unassuming restaurant with outside tables and benches, filled with locals. We shared a table with a young family. All signage was in Japanese, but an English menu was procured and we soon had large mugs of icy cold Saporo beer while waiting for our fresh green peppers stuffed with misu ground meat, and grilled prawns. A small dish of bright green Edamame beans was brought as an appetizer. Glen tried one, chewing studiously through the rather tough outer pods. I wish I had a video of the lady’s face as she watched with an almost comical mixture of horror and concern … not knowing whether to intervene or not. Turns out you’re only supposed to eat the INSIDE beans. Laughter always starts a conversation. Their little boy was 7 (cute as a button), the husband had been to Canada (Toronto) years before. We asked what foods they would recommend, and in turn the mum asked about typically Canadian foods (Salmon and maple syrup of course). The peppers were delicious – crisp, juicy and bursting with umami, and when the gigantic grilled prawn arrived on a skewer, the Mum looked on with interest – wondering whether to order one as well. However seeing the difficulty we encountered while attempting to remove the shell with only chopsticks, she quickly changed her mind. More giggles at our antics! It was a thoroughly delightful interlude.

More touring … past the famous mass pedestrian crossing … a girl whizzing along on an electric scooter with a cello and case on her back … the bus inching around corners with mere millimeters to spare between wing mirrors and wall. All wonderful stuff.

In the evening we ogled the lights … whole streets of dazzling advertising along the lines of Piccadilly Circus or Times Square, but more so. A huge, double towered building not far from our hotel has moving light displays every evening. There was an enormous gathering of young people, all holding up signs and chanting … something to do with Clan Queen (a music group?). Very peaceful though and soon dispersed. Hunted around without much success for the notorious Gozilla Head … until finally looking UP. There it was atop one of the hotels. A narrow laneway known affectionately as ‘Piss Alley’ (proper name Memory Lane) – formerly an old drinking and gambling spot, was next to be found it was barely wide enough for people to walk through. Winding past dozens of the famous Yakitori eateries … the smoke from minute charcoal grills getting thicker and thicker. As the evening had had turned windy and cold it was a relief to locate one on the outer edges (less smoke) All are tiny, hole-in-the-wall affairs with a dozen seats at most all cheek-by-jowl – the grill going full tilt cooking up … well, pretty much anything that would fit on a skewer — chicken, beef, squid, pork belly, ground up gizzards, hot dogs and vegetables. These places are so narrow diners have to stand up to let other patrons get by. Huge fun and great food.

Click on the photos for a better view.