On to Hanoi

An early morning bike ride through the village and countryside, where scooters laden with all manner of provisions – from food to fuel – were ridden through neighbourhoods – the drivers announcing their wares loudly. Door-to-door delivery!

Tuan drove us to Can Tho airport and it was a short hop to Hanoi. We disentangled the suitcases from the mobs surrounding the baggage chutes and followed Google’s directions to the apartment by hopping on a conveniently waiting number 7 bus. The young conductor appeared quite disinterested in life, however he sold us tickets. At first the bus followed closely to the route depicted on our phones … and then it didn’t! We waved the conductor over and showed him the address … he indicated we should wait, then pointed at the bus stop. We got off. Hmm … rush hour on a major street and the apartment still appeared to be a significant distance away … much too far to walk. Time to try the ‘Grab’ app. It seems that a car is on its way, but the pick up point doesn’t show clearly, and every time the driver phones it’s too noisy to hear him.

Eventually, a white SUV with flashing lights pulled up … license number checks out and he has our name so in we pile. Phew! Deposited 15 minutes later across from a narrow lane … yes, there’s the green door at the end. The original entry instructions were to unlock the outer gate, put your hand through the slot to lift the latch on the inside. Once in the courtyard, look under the washing machine cover to locate the door key!!! Thankfully the door opened before we got there and a friendly voice asked if we were Glen Smith … it was the owner’s son.

Lovely apartment – comfortable and spacious. It was dark by now and supplies were needed so we ventured forth to the nearest Circle K convenience store and grabbed water and a few bits and pieces before falling into bed.

Exploring by daylight is much preferred. Our street is lined with huge trees … all planted in the sidewalk(!) … so it means either having to clamber over and around mountainous roots … or risk life and limb to walk curbside as a gush of scooters, buses and cars whiz by inches from your elbow.

Most important this morning – breakfast (we don’t have supplies yet … apart from the sad Circle K sandwiches last night … the yoghurt was good though). Best place to cross the road is at Train Street, and even then one holds one’s breath and makes a break for it in small groups. There are five million scooters in Hanoi, and as Glen says, it seems as though at least half of them are at the same crosswalk as we are! Made worse when a train goes by and all traffic is held up. One of the must do things while in Hanoi is to sit at a cafe/bar just inches from the track as the train goes by!

Down a quieter street with so many choices of food … small stools where steaming caldrons of broth simmer and questionable, unidentifiable lumps of cooked ‘meat’ hang suspended … open air cafes with pho, noodles, fried rice and dumplings … cocktail/bars busy even this early in the morning, and the ever-present coffee and tea bars literally every two feet. Pancakes! The first western food we’ve had in a while, so we ducked in. Excellent coffee, cinnamon bun (bit disappointing) but the crepes with strawberry compote and slices of fresh mango were delicious.

It’s an experience to absorb Hanoi streets at full throttle … a sensation overload, and you don’t know where to look next. But what is surprising … is how GREEN the city is – every street is lined with trees. An attempt was made to find one of the major produce markets which ended in disappointment. We found the building alright but no evidence of a market inside, despite walking all around – it was just a warehouse. A nearby fruit stall looked promising until the prices were mysteriously elevated over those advertised (trying out the tourists?). We declined. No offer of lower pricing, so we walked on.

Just a few streets away a row of local shops … a butcher’s with an assortment of fresh pork (we bought a small chunk) … further along crisp, orange carrots, whole stalks of broccoli, earthy potatoes, and brown eggs (carefully placed in plastic bag) .. further still bottles of water and some dried snacks. That’s dinner for tonight sorted. Much nicer shopping. All of the Vietnamese people we have met are not only amazing and resilient but also kind and generous – always ready to help with a smile despite our mangling of their language.

On another day it was bowls of Pho and what have to be the world’s best spring rolls for lunch … delicate, crisp, savoury, so hot they burn your mouth, but SO good – no question we’ll be back for more. An afternoon hop on bus tour around the city. Walked around Hoan Kiem Lake with its temple and bright red bridge. There used to be ancient giant turtles in the lake but no longer … the last two died in 1967 and 2018 – probably due to the toxicity of the lake https://www.atlasobscura.com/articles/what-is-hoan-kiem-turtle-vietnam Their remains are preserved and on display. The largest weighed 550 pounds and was seven feet in length. It sounds as though there are only 4 left in the world.