Ninh Binh

Luxury overnight train into Sapa. Travel in style! Comfy berths, tray of snacks, bottled water, complimentary juices (not in sealed bottles … bit worrisome on a rocking train as there’s not much room on the tiny table!) … slippers too. Nine-thirty, right on time, we pull out of the station. Now one can see the reason for supplied earplugs … this might be a new luxury train, but it runs on 100-year-old tracks … so every curve is accompanied by horrendous groaning and clattering. Oh my! The earplugs did deaden the din somewhat and amazingly we did manage some sleep. We’d be pulling into Hanoi around 5:30 am, so at 4:30 I decided to visit one of the two bathrooms in each coach, to freshen up. I didn’t notice the patch of something slippery someone had spilled … right outside our cabin … and almost went skating down the hallway … sliding our door closed perhaps a mite too fast in the process. Returning carefully, I tried the door. Closed fast. Tried again more forcefully … still stuck tight. Knocked on the door, trying not to waken the neighbours. No train staff around for assistance. After a great deal of hefty shoving and whispered instructions from both of us, the door eventually relented.

Train Street was certainly not crowded with looky-loos at this time of the morning, but Hanoi’s market place was in full swing as we passed by. Five minutes before arrival coffee (of a sort) was brought to each cabin … an unrecognizable dark sludge with enough sugar to induce instant diabetic coma and no sua (milk) even though requested. One sip was enough.

Our car and driver were waiting (6:30 am) at the station and whisked us off on a journey to Ninh Binh. It was actually quite economical as we had wanted to visit the soy sauce factory and the fish basket village … both of which were on the way. So rather than booking separate tours we did a combination … and with a great tour guide too (David).

It was still early on a Saturday morning, so many places didn’t actually open until 8:00, but the second Soy Sauce ‘factory’ welcomed us in. The entire courtyard was packed with large, lidded stone jars … complete with the occasional cat perched on top. The whole process was explained from fermenting the rice for 3 days till a special mold developed. This was then added to the jars with roasted soy beans and filled with water. These jars were hand stirred every day for 3 months … the dates were written in white chalk. You could see the colour deepening as the sauce matured. Vietnamese soy sauce is completely different from the black Chinese or Japanese variety … it retains its deep golden brown colour and has a lot of texture from the rice. This particular business had been in operation at least three generations (still using the same pots) and had won silver and gold medals for their product and had the first woman in charge. Photos of her and one of her sons who died in the war, are proudly displayed. A really great tour.

This particular Saturday (according to astrological charts) was a very good one for marriages … and several were being prepared around the village … the venues decorated in white, filmy curtains. Several fattened chickens were also being prepared at the edge of the road … bit gruesome, but quick.

On to Fish basket village. A little more difficult to locate, but locals helpfully pointed us in the right direction. Walking through the gates of one man’s yard we were staggered by the amount, variety and sizes of woven basket – all depending on the type of fish to be caught. We never knew his name but what a delight he was. At 77, he and his wife had been making fish trap baskets for decades – back when they were commonly. Now it’s mostly to keep the tradition alive and to supply the tourist market … although he still uses some for catching eels, shrimp and larger fish in the summer. The original bamboo house is still used as a sitting area (we were treated to copious bananas and fresh pomelos — along with high proof home-made ‘happy water’ that made your eyes water). He showed us the house they now live in (basically one large room with three sections) and the separate kitchen building. Traditionally cooking had been done over a wide open fire pit … the heat and smoke rising to create a smoking area above. It was like stepping back in time … there was even an original well in the courtyard … still functioning … although one probably wouldn’t want to drink the water. David (the tour guide) grew up in the area and was completely transported back to his childhood … pointing out things he remembered. I think he was just as taken with this tour as we were.

A quick stop on the outskirts of Ninh Bin for coffee and food, then on to the Mountain Home Stay … surrounded by limestone hills – just like at Lan Ha, but this time on land. A maze of narrow roads, red roofs, small rustic restaurants/ coffee shops spread out along the river. Scooters, of course, but now many visitors on rented bicycles peddle the perfectly flat by-ways to visit the sights.

Really feeling the lack of sleep now, we took advantage of an early check in to have a nap. Then took out two of the bikes for a quick explore of the area before it got dark. A criss-cross of roads and canals that seem to go on forever. Spotted three young lads fishing and stopped to say hello (Xin Chao) – they chattered back in Vietnamese, wondering why we didn’t understand. But then they noticed the camera and were eager to have a photo. They seemed very pleased with the result … pointing to each other with glee.

Suddenly, the smell of roasting duck filled the air as we rode past one of the restaurants, and there on spits (inside a glassed-in roaster) were several golden-brown ducks. If we’re back here by 6:30, we can have some. Done! Took the bikes back, changed, put on bug spray and arrived back a touch later at 6:45 … GONE. Snooze and you lose! The lady who’d promised us the duck forgot to tell her husband, the roaster … she was so upset. “Tomorrow”, she said, “there will be duck tomorrow!” We settled for a big bowl of Pho instead.